- For shapers and surfboard kit purchasers -

When working with Epoxy, it is important to know the following:

• Epoxy must be measured precisely in the ratio called for by the manufacturer.
• Mix up the sides of the container and ensure ALL resin is mixed. Soft spots that do not cure can be caused by raw hardener being unmixed.
• Do not overwork or recapture epoxy and put it on the lamination, this will cause some areas to look "milky,"
• Try to apply subsequent layers of epoxy before fully cured to maximize bond.
• Minimize the size of cutouts for boxes and plugs to minimize exothermal melt. Use the slowest cure epoxy allowed at the ambient temperatures for cutouts -- minimize overflow.
• To aid sanding, use a fairing agent with your leveling coat. Straight epoxy is hard to hand sand, try an orbital sander or a random orbital sander for better results.
• Polyester resin can be used as a sanding coat. Ensure the board is cured and cleaned (alcohol or even water based cleaners). Apply a skim coat of lam resin followed by a coat of sanding resin. This will improve UV resistance of the board. However, polyester coats will bond poorly and may chip or separate when dinged. Polyester over epoxy is not recommended in a commercial board building environment. 
  

About Amine Blush

Very little discussion is given to this subject in the manufacture of Epoxy boards. However, it is critical that the successful manufacture know and understand Amine Blush. Amines are chemical compounds common to most hardeners. As the board cures amines gravitate to the surface, create a film that may be visible to the naked eye, and can cause subsequent laminations to fail. Amine Blush is not common but it is important to be aware of the temperature concerns that cause it.

• Use the slowest possible hardener for your shop's ambient air temperature. The slower the cure, the less blush.
• Amines are water soluble, they can be removed with soap and water, alcohol or acetone. Sanding alone may not remove blush and just smear it across the surface.
• Amines can affect surface treatments like poly coats or paints. Let the board cure fully and clean before surface treatments are applied.
• Damp, cool weather appears to aggravate problems with blushing.
• Try to lay down both the top and bottom lam in the same day.
• There are multitudes of epoxy products on the market and they can be very different. Some are more likely to blush than others. A general rule of thumb: Surfboard resin is made for surfboards, boat resin is made for boats. Surfboard industry manufacturers have made great leaps to address and correct any problems with resin and therefore the resin will be predictable in the factory environment, it is difficult to say the same for non-surfboard epoxies (including boat/marine, aerospace and construction epoxies).
  

Sealing

Use Dap "Fast N Final" -- color is perfect match with blank. Good aesthetic results and finishes well.

For any other shaping information and help visit www.swaylocks.com or contact us directly.